The Diverse Israeli Table-Part 4- Central and Eastern Europe

The Diverse Israeli Table-Part 4- Central and Eastern Europe

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     THE DIVERSE ISRAELI TABLE
     VOL 1: | MIDDLE EAST | MAGHREB | MEDITERRANEAN | EASTERN EUROPE |
     VOL 2: | CULINARY POTPOURRI | HOLIDAYS | WINE | BREAD
     
         
    Part 4: Central and Eastern Europe
     
       

    When most people think about "Jewish food" it is often gefilte fish, knishes and cholent that come to mind - dishes that came to Israel and the rest of the world from Central and Eastern Europe. These dishes have been adopted comfortably into the cuisine of Israel (as well as of New York, Buenos Aires and Paris) because they were originally prepared in the homes and restaurants of Jews the world over, who later immigrated to Israel and other countries. As "Jewish" as we may consider such dishes (and the delicatessens and restaurants in which they are served) to be, they are, of course, no more Jewish or Israeli than couscous, shishlik and halvah which have their roots in the Middle-East, North Africa and the Mediterranean Basin.


    Hungary - Paprika, Goulash and the Good Table

     
       

    No European nations have had as much impact on Israeli dining as Hungary, Poland and Russia. From a culinary point of view, the Jews of Hungary were in an enviable position, for the cuisine of Hungary is surely the most sophisticated of any Central European nation.

    Paprika, the favorite spice of Hungarians, and goulash, their favorite dish, are now everyday parts of the Israeli diet. It is interesting to note that while goulash has been around in Hungary for more than fourteen centuries, paprika is a later addition to their diet, the spice having been brought by the Turks during their 16th century occupation.

    Despite the fact that paprika is a relative latecomer to their tables, Hungarians prescribe it, whether taken internally or applied externally, as a cure for nearly anything that can ail a human being. So popular is this spice that within Israel it is found, even in the poorest of markets, in no less than eight varieties, each boasting a uniquely different taste and level of sharpness.

    The only major change that Jews had to make in adapting to the local cuisine was to avoid the use of pork, by far the most popular meat in the country. Within Hungary, nearly every cooked dish is, at one time or another, rubbed, wrapped or sauteed in pork fat. This posed no real problem, however, as kashrut (the dietary laws followed by observant Jews) allows for the use of no less satisfying goose fat in cookery.

    The following meal may be found in a kosher restaurant in Budapest or in the home of a Hungarian now living in Israel. The recipes are designed to serve 4 - 6.


    Cold Asparagus with Walnuts

    750 gr. fresh asparagus
    1 cup walnuts, chopped finely
    6 Tbsp. sugar
    1/4 cup each soy sauce and vinegar
    1 - 2 Tbsp. walnut or sesame oil
    pepper to taste

     

    Tie the asparagus in serving bunches and stand in a high pot with several inches of salted water. Bring to the boil, cover and let cook just until tender (6 - 8 minutes). Drain well and arrange on a serving dish. Mix together the remaining ingredients and pour over the asparagus, lifting the asparagus so the dressing penetrates. Sprinkle with pepper, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate. Remove from the refrigerator 15 minutes before serving.


    Tongue in Wine Sauce

    1 pickled beef tongue, about 2 kgs.
    3 cups beef stock
    8 bay leaves
    10 whole peppercorns
    2 tsp. dill
    1 cup port wine
    1 Tbsp. parve margarine
    1 tsp. sweet paprika
    1 Tbsp. cornflour

     

    Remove the fatty end of the tongue (and reserve for future use in soup or stew). Place the tongue in a large kettle, add the stock and then add enough water to cover. Add 5 of the bay leaves, the peppercorns and the dill. Bring to a boil, reduce the flame and cook until the tongue is soft (about 2 hours). Peel under cold running water and let cool.

    In a saucepan, boil the wine with the remaining bay leaves until the wine is reduced by half. Remove from the flame, add the margarine and the paprika, mixing well. While the sauce is still hot, sprinkle over the cornflour, mix well and continue to mix until the sauce thickens. Slice the tongue thinly and heat the slices in the sauce. Serve hot.


    Egg Barley - Tarhonya

    For the Egg Barley:
    10 heaping Tbsp. flour
    1 egg
    1 tsp. oil
    1/2 tsp. salt

    For cooking:
    1 cup butter*
    1 tsp. paprika
    chicken stock as required
    salt and pepper to taste

     

    Put the flour on a large pastry board and make a well in the center of the pile.

    Lightly beat together the egg, salt, oil, and 1 Tbsp. water. Drop this mixture into the well and work the mixture with the hands, folding the four over the egg mixture until the dough can be rolled into a ball. Knead this mixture by folding the dough over towards the body. Press with the heel of the hand and give a slight turn. Fold, press and turn again and continue this process until the dough is smooth and elastic.

    Divide the dough into 2 balls and let stand, uncovered, for 30 minutes. Then grate the balls on the coarse side of a grater, letting the gratings fall on a clean towel. Continue to move the grater so that the dough spreads to one thin layer over the entire cloth. Let stand and dry for 6-8 hours.

    Melt 3/4 cup of the butter in a large skillet. When thoroughly hot, add the grains, stirring with a wooden spoon to brown evenly. The finished grains should be barely browned. Add the paprika, saute for 2 minutes longer and then just cover with stock. Cover and simmer until the grains are soft (30-40 minutes). Drain whatever liquids remain. Add the remaining butter, toss, season to taste with salt and pepper and serve at once.

    * Note: If serving the egg barley with a meat-based meal, substitute parve margarine for the butter.


    Cucumber Salad - Ugorkasalata

    4 cucumbers, peeled and thinly sliced
    1/4 cup wine vinegar
    2 Tbsp. sugar
    1 clove garlic, mashed
    generous pinch of red paprika
    black pepper to taste
    1/2 tsp. crushed cumin seeds
    parsley, chopped, for garnish

     

    Place the sliced cucumbers in a glass bowl and sprinkle liberally with salt, stirring. Let stand for 1 hour and then drain the accumulated liquids. Dry the cucumber slices on paper toweling and then return to the bowl. Combine the wine vinegar, sugar, garlic, paprika and pepper and mix well. Pour over the cucumbers, tossing well. Sprinkle the cumin and parsley over the top. Serve lightly chilled or at room temperature.


    A Polish Culinary Odyssey

    For the last millennium, no European nation has had such flexible borders as Poland. This is a country that, in part or in whole, has been occupied by one or more of her neighbors for longer than most Poles care to remember. This goes a long way in explaining why there is probably no uniquely Polish cuisine. Although sour cream and dill are the two cooking ingredients almost inescapable on the Polish table, these do not a national cuisine create. Throughout the country, one cannot help but note that what is set on the table is invariably a blend of the cooking styles of bordering neighbors (Germany, Russia, Austria, Czechoslovakia, and Hungary), each of which has at one time or another held a claim on at least some part of Polish geography.

    The French and the Italians, neither of which ever invaded, also had their impact on Polish cookery. And the Jewish table, too, had an undeniably strong impact on the national cuisine.

    The Jews of Poland, whether they lived in the shtetls or the large cities, did well to overcome a tradition in which pork was the major source of protein and where nearly every meat dish incorporated dairy products in the cooking. Each of the following dishes, distinctly Jewish in origin, is now considered part of the repertoire of any good Polish cook in Israel as well as in Poland.

    The recipes given are designed to serve 4 - 6.


     
     

     

     

    Sorrel and Raisin Pie

    pie crust for one 9" (23 cm) covered pie
    300 gr. sorrel leaves, with stems removed, chopped
      (if sorrel is unavailable, substitute 450 gr. spinach)
    100 gr. each sultanas and seedless raisins
    1/2 cup brown sugar
    1 tsp. ground cinnamon
    1/4 tsp. grated nutmeg
    2 eggs, beaten with 1 Tbsp. water
    sweet cream, as required*

     

    Roll out the pastry dough and fill a 9" (23 cm) pie tin with the larger portion. Chill well.

    Combine the sorrel with the sultanas, raisins, sugar, cinnamon and nutmeg and mix well. Fill the chilled pie crust with this mixture. Cover the pie with the remaining pastry, pinching the crusts together. Brush the top with the egg mixture, pierce the crust twice with a fork and bake in a hot oven until the top is well browned (about 25 minutes). Serve hot with light cream or well chilled with heavy cream.

    * Note: If serving the pie with a meat-based meal, substitute parve cream for the sweet cream.


    Duck with Horseradish

    1 duckling, about 2 kgs., trimmed and cleaned
    2 1/2 cups chicken stock
    1 cup grated horseradish
    2 Tbsp. shortening, for frying
    2 Tbsp. flour

    grated horseradish and lemon wedges for garnish

    Sprinkle the duck with flour. In a heavy saucepan, melt the shortening and brown the duck on all sides. Add the stock and 1 cup of the grated horseradish and simmer gently until the duck is tender. Remove the duck, let cool for 15 minutes and carve, arranging the pieces on a preheated serving platter.

    Skim the fat from the surface of the pan liquids and pour a small amount over the bird. Serve the remaining gravy in a separate bowl. Garnish with grated horseradish and lemon wedges.


    Potato Pancakes - Ratzelech

    4 large potatoes, peeled and grated
    1 large onion, grated
    1 apple, peeled, cored and grated
    2 eggs, separated
    pinch of sugar
    2 Tbsp. matzo meal or flour
    1 1/2 tsp. salt
    1/2 tsp. white pepper
    about 1/4 cup shortening
    applesauce for serving

     

    Combine the potatoes, onion and apple and place the mixture, a large handful at a time into a towel or cheesecloth and squeeze out as much moisture as possible.

    Combine the potato mixture with the egg yolks, sugar and just enough flour to thicken the mixture to the consistency of cooked oatmeal. Add the salt and pepper and mix well.

    Beat the egg whites stiff and fold these into the mixture.

    In a large heavy skillet, heat the shortening (there should be about 1/2" [1 cm] of shortening in the skillet). Drop the pancakes into the shortening from a tablespoon, fry over a moderate flame until the first side has browned (5-7 minutes) and then turn and brown the other side. Drain on paper toweling, sprinkle over with salt to taste and serve hot with applesauce.


    Fruited Rice Pudding

    1 cup uncooked rice
    1/4 cup sugar
    1 Tbsp. vegetable shortening
    1/2 cup blanched almonds or walnuts
    1/4 cup each cooked pitted prunes, raisins and dates
    1/4 honey

     

    Cook the rice in 2 cups of water for 30 minutes. Drain and add the sugar and shortening.

    While the rice is cooking, oil a heatproof casserole with a 4-5 cup capacity. In a mixing bowl, combine the nuts, fruits and honey. Arrange half of this mixture in the casserole so that it covers the bottom and comes up the sides. Spoon half the rice over the fruit mixture and over this spoon the remaining fruits and honey. Top with the remaining rice and cover with aluminum foil.

    Place the casserole on a rack inside a large pot, pour in boiling water to come 3/4 up the sides of the pudding dish, cover the pot and steam for 45 minutes.

    Remove the cover and let the steam evaporate before removing the inner bowl. Remove the foil, place a serving plate over the rice and invert in one rapid motion so that the pudding will sit on the serving plate. May serve hot, cool or well chilled.


    Romania - Earthy Country Cookery

     
     
    Harvest, Jezreel Valley
     

    Because Jerusalem boasts more than a dozen Romanian restaurants, many Israelis have come to associate the cookery of this Balkan land primarily with lemon-flavored soups and grilled meats. This is fine because ciorba, a thick and hearty soup based on chicken stock, lemon juice, boiled beef and carrots, beans, okra and tomatoes is a marvelous treat.

    Nor can one fault the traditional Romanian mixed grill. Cooked over open charcoals, garlicky minced meat patties, steak, liver and seasoned kebabs are a carnivore's delight. Those who like variety meats will also find the brain, spinal cord and kidneys that make up a part of this grill much to their taste.

    As delicious as these dishes may be, they are not fully representative of the rich Romanian kitchen. This is a style of cookery that may best be described as earthy. With few frills, Romanian cooks have evolved a country-style cuisine that falls somewhere between the dishes we normally associate with Europe and those of the Middle East. Sausages are as popular as they are in Central Europe, but minced meat patties like the garlicky beef mititei are skewer grilled, like Middle Eastern kebabs. Tarator, the favorite cold yogurt and cucumber soup of Romania is another dish that has many Middle-Eastern cousins.

    While the Jews of Romania did not make significant contributions to the cookery of that nation, they had little trouble in adopting this style of cookery to the needs of kashrut. The following meal will serve 6.


    Marinated Mushrooms

    4 Tbs. olive oil
    1 1/2 Tbsp. vinegar or lemon juice
    1 clove garlic, chopped finely
    1/2 tsp. each salt, black pepper and dry mustard
    pinch each paprika and oregano
    3 Tbsp. chives, chopped finely
    1 1/2 Tbsp. parsley, chopped finely
    1 1/2 cup small mushrooms, sliced thinly, with the stems
    lettuce leaves for serving

     

    In a small bowl, combine all of the ingredients except the mushrooms and lettuce leaves. Beat these with a wire whisk until smooth.

    Add the mushrooms to the bowl and stir gently with a wooden spoon, making sure all the mushroom slices are coated with the marinade. Refrigerate and let marinate for

    1-2 hours, stirring occasionally. Remove the mushrooms with a slotted spoon and serve on lettuce leaves.


    Spinach Soup

    1/2 kg. spinach
    3 Tbsp. butter
    7 cups vegetable stock
    3 eggs
    juice of 1 large lemon
    salt and pepper to taste
    1 cup croutons
    1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese

     

    Remove the heavy stems from the spinach and wash well under running water. Dry the leaves on paper toweling. Melt the butter in a heavy skillet and saute the spinach leaves until just tender.

    In a saucepan, bring the stock just to the point of boiling. Reduce the flame and let simmer gently for 4-5 minutes.

    In a small mixing bowl, beat together the eggs, lemon juice, salt and pepper. Add 3 Tbsp. of the hot stock and beat well. Add this mixture to the rest of the stock and then add the spinach. Mix briskly, garnish with the cheese and croutons and serve hot.


     
     

     

     
    Street sign, Old Jaffa
     

    Fish in Mustard Sauce

    1 large mackerel, about 2 1/2 kgs., cleaned
    1 tsp. salt
    juice of 2 large lemons
    2 cloves garlic, chopped finely
    1 Tbsp. parsley, chopped finely
    1/2 cup olive oil
    1 tsp. pepper
    1/4 cup butter
    1 Tbsp. powdered mustard
    1 tsp. flour

     

    Place the fish in a large container, cover with water and add the salt and lemon juice. Let soak for 15-20 minutes, drain and dry well. Discard the water.

    Combine the garlic and parsley and add the oil and pepper. Return the fish to its container, pour over the oil mixture and let stand 15 minutes, turning 2 or 3 times.

    Grease a piece of heavy brown paper on both sides. Place the paper in a skillet and place over a very low flame. Place the fish on this paper and cook slowly, spooning over tablespoons of the oil mixture periodically until the fish is tender. Transfer the fish to a preheated serving platter and set aside to keep warm.

    In a small saucepan, melt the butter and add the mustard and flour, stirring until the mixture is even throughout. Then add the remaining oil mixture, stirring constantly. Pour the sauce over the fish just before serving. Serve hot.


    Mixed Vegetables - Ghivetch

    Because this dish is always better when made in large quantities, this recipe will serve 12 - 15. Always better the day after cooking (and even better the day after that), ghivetch may be served hot, lightly chilled or at room temperature and may be accompanied by yogurt or sour cream. There is a clear relationship between this Romanian dish and French ratatouille.

    4 onions, sliced
    1 1/2 cups olive oil
    1 small head cabbage, shredded
    1 small cauliflower, broke into flowerettes
    1/2 kg. lima beans, shelled
    8 tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped coarsely
    6 small potatoes, peeled and cubed
    6 small carrots, sliced
    125 gr. okra, cut in thick slices
    125 gr. string beans, trimmed and halved or quartered
    1 green pepper, seeded and cut into strips
    the white portions of 3 leeks, sliced
    2 or 3 zucchini squash, cubed
    2 parsley roots, diced
    1 celery root, diced
    1 cup sour grapes or 2 sour plums (may used tinned)
    1/2 cup parsley, chopped finely
    8 - 12 cloves garlic
    salt and pepper to taste

     

    Heat 1/2 cup of the oil in a 5-liter flameproof casserole or Dutch oven, and fry the onions until golden brown.

    Add all of the vegetables, herbs and fruits and mix gently, sprinkling with salt and pepper.

    In a saucepan, bring the remaining oil to a boil and pour over the vegetables. Cover tightly and cook over a moderate flame until the liquids begin to boil. Transfer to a medium oven until all of the vegetables are cooked and most of the liquids have evaporated (1 - 1 1/2 hours), adding more liquid if the casserole dries out during the cooking. Stir gently once or twice during cooking. Season to taste with the salt and pepper and, if desired, serve with yogurt or sour cream.


    Spiced Pear Flan

    3/4 cup butter, softened
    1/2 kg. brown sugar
    1 1/2 cups flour
    1 1/2 tsp. each ginger and cinnamon, both ground
    3 eggs, lightly beaten
    6 firm pears, peeled, halved, cored and sliced thinly
    whipped cream for serving

     

    Beat the butter until creamy and then beat in 2/3 of the sugar until the mixture is light and fluffy. Combine the flour with half of the cinnamon and all but a pinch of the ginger. Sprinkle these over the butter, add the eggs and beat together well.

    Transfer the mixture to a 9" (23 cm.) flan mold and smooth over the top. Place in a preheated medium oven and bake until the mixture is firm and has pulled back from the sides. Turn onto a wire rack and allow to come to room temperature.

    Put the remaining sugar into a saucepan with 4 1/2 Tbsp. cold water, and heat over a low flame, stirring until the sugar is completely absorbed. Add the pears and remaining spices. Heat until the mixture begins to simmer, cover and cook very gently until the pears are tender and nearly translucent (about 10-15 minutes). Uncover, increase the flame and cook until the liquids are reduced to a glaze. Turn the pears out onto a lightly dampened plate and let cool completely.

    Decorate the cooled flan with the pears and serve with generous amounts of whipped cream.


    In the Russian Style

    Noted for their hearty appetites, pre-revolutionary Russians enjoyed talking and writing about food nearly as much as they enjoyed eating it. No literature, in fact, has set so many of its scenes around the table. In Tolstoy's magnificent Anna Karenina, for example, there is a delightful scene in which the sensual and polished Oblonsky and the spiritual Levin go out to dine together at a fashionable Moscow restaurant. Oblonsky wants to order elegant dishes in the French style: oysters, soupe printaniere, turbot with sauce Beaumarchais and capons à l'estragon. Levin, who in Tolstoy's mind was evidently a symbol of virtuous Russian simplicity is unhappy at this and would have preferred plain porridge, cabbage soup, bread and cheese.

    Thanks to Czar Peter the Great, who encouraged the importation of Western European culture, the best Russian cuisine since the 18th century has been heavily influenced by the French chefs who came to work in the homes of the royal family. In fact, not a few well-known "Russian dishes" (Beef Strogonoff, Charlotte Russe, Chicken Pojarsky and Chicken Kiev) were invented by Frenchmen.

    The massive immigration of Russian Jews to Israel in the last two decades of the 20th century guaranteed that the cuisine, both of the Tsars and the peasants, would become a permanent part of the Israeli culinary scene. Following are two of my own favorite recipes.


    Sauerkraut Soup - Shchi

    1/2 kg. sauerkraut
    1 1/2 Tbsp. parve margarine
    1 1/2 Tbsp. vegetable oil
    2 large onions, chopped coarsely
    1 stalk celery, diced
    2 1/2 liters hot beef stock
    1 kg. lean beef, cut into cubes or 10 sliced frankfurters
    1 bouquet garni made by tying 1 bay leaf, 8 peppercorns and 1 sprig of thyme in a cheesecloth
    salt and pepper to taste
    8 small potatoes, boiled in their skins
    2 Tbsp. chopped fresh dill or 1 Tbsp. dried dill
    1 cup sour cream

     

    Rinse the sauerkraut in cold water and drain thoroughly.

    Heat the butter and oil together in a large saucepan and gently saute the onion and celery until the onions begin to turn golden. Add the stock, meat and bouquet garni and simmer very gently, uncovered, for 2 hours. Discard the bouquet garni, correct the seasoning with salt and pepper to taste, add the sauerkraut and serve with the whole, peeled potatoes, dill and, if desired, sour cream. (Serves 6 - 8).


    Cheese Fritters - Sirniki

    Michael Romanov, the first tsar of Russia, claimed that he invented this dish somewhere about 1625. This makes for a nice story, but it simply is not true. Greeks have been dining on fritters made from an identical recipe at least since the time of Plato. However, most Russians remain steadfast in the belief that the dish is theirs.

    4 cups cottage cheese
    1/2 tsp. white pepper
    3/4 cup flour, sifted
    4 egg yolks
    2 Tbsp. sugar
    1/4 tsp. salt
    butter for frying
    sour cream for serving, well chilled

     

    Mix together the cottage cheese and the white pepper. Let stand for 15 minutes. Place the cheese in toweling or cheesecloth and carefully squeeze as much moisture from it as possible. Rub the dry cheese through a sieve. In a mixing bowl, combine the cheese, flour, egg yolks, sugar and salt. Knead together well and roll into 3" (7 1/2 cm) thick tubes. Refrigerate for about 1 hour and then slice the rolls into 2 1/2 cm. slices.

    Melt 2 Tbsp. of the butter in a skillet and fry the slices until golden brown on both sides, adding butter only if the skillet becomes dry. Serve hot with sour cream. (May be served as an appetizer or a dessert).

     
     
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