No European nations have had as much impact on Israeli dining as Hungary, Poland and Russia. From a culinary point of view, the Jews of Hungary were in an enviable position, for the cuisine of Hungary is surely the most sophisticated of any Central European nation.
Paprika, the favorite spice of Hungarians, and goulash, their favorite dish, are now everyday parts of the Israeli diet. It is interesting to note that while goulash has been around in Hungary for more than fourteen centuries, paprika is a later addition to their diet, the spice having been brought by the Turks during their 16th century occupation.
Despite the fact that paprika is a relative latecomer to their tables, Hungarians prescribe it, whether taken internally or applied externally, as a cure for nearly anything that can ail a human being. So popular is this spice that within Israel it is found, even in the poorest of markets, in no less than eight varieties, each boasting a uniquely different taste and level of sharpness.
The only major change that Jews had to make in adapting to the local cuisine was to avoid the use of pork, by far the most popular meat in the country. Within Hungary, nearly every cooked dish is, at one time or another, rubbed, wrapped or sauteed in pork fat. This posed no real problem, however, as kashrut (the dietary laws followed by observant Jews) allows for the use of no less satisfying goose fat in cookery.
The following meal may be found in a kosher restaurant in Budapest or in the home of a Hungarian now living in Israel. The recipes are designed to serve 4 - 6.
Cold Asparagus with Walnuts
750 gr. fresh asparagus
1 cup walnuts, chopped finely
6 Tbsp. sugar
1/4 cup each soy sauce and vinegar
1 - 2 Tbsp. walnut or sesame oil
pepper to taste
Tie the asparagus in serving bunches and stand in a high pot with several inches of salted water. Bring to the boil, cover and let cook just until tender (6 - 8 minutes). Drain well and arrange on a serving dish. Mix together the remaining ingredients and pour over the asparagus, lifting the asparagus so the dressing penetrates. Sprinkle with pepper, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate. Remove from the refrigerator 15 minutes before serving.
Tongue in Wine Sauce
1 pickled beef tongue, about 2 kgs.
3 cups beef stock
8 bay leaves
10 whole peppercorns
2 tsp. dill
1 cup port wine
1 Tbsp. parve margarine
1 tsp. sweet paprika
1 Tbsp. cornflour
Remove the fatty end of the tongue (and reserve for future use in soup or stew). Place the tongue in a large kettle, add the stock and then add enough water to cover. Add 5 of the bay leaves, the peppercorns and the dill. Bring to a boil, reduce the flame and cook until the tongue is soft (about 2 hours). Peel under cold running water and let cool.
In a saucepan, boil the wine with the remaining bay leaves until the wine is reduced by half. Remove from the flame, add the margarine and the paprika, mixing well. While the sauce is still hot, sprinkle over the cornflour, mix well and continue to mix until the sauce thickens. Slice the tongue thinly and heat the slices in the sauce. Serve hot.
Egg Barley - Tarhonya
For the Egg Barley:
10 heaping Tbsp. flour
1 egg
1 tsp. oil
1/2 tsp. salt
For cooking:
1 cup butter*
1 tsp. paprika
chicken stock as required
salt and pepper to taste
Put the flour on a large pastry board and make a well in the center of the pile.
Lightly beat together the egg, salt, oil, and 1 Tbsp. water. Drop this mixture into the well and work the mixture with the hands, folding the four over the egg mixture until the dough can be rolled into a ball. Knead this mixture by folding the dough over towards the body. Press with the heel of the hand and give a slight turn. Fold, press and turn again and continue this process until the dough is smooth and elastic.
Divide the dough into 2 balls and let stand, uncovered, for 30 minutes. Then grate the balls on the coarse side of a grater, letting the gratings fall on a clean towel. Continue to move the grater so that the dough spreads to one thin layer over the entire cloth. Let stand and dry for 6-8 hours.
Melt 3/4 cup of the butter in a large skillet. When thoroughly hot, add the grains, stirring with a wooden spoon to brown evenly. The finished grains should be barely browned. Add the paprika, saute for 2 minutes longer and then just cover with stock. Cover and simmer until the grains are soft (30-40 minutes). Drain whatever liquids remain. Add the remaining butter, toss, season to taste with salt and pepper and serve at once.
* Note: If serving the egg barley with a meat-based meal, substitute parve margarine for the butter.
Cucumber Salad - Ugorkasalata
4 cucumbers, peeled and thinly sliced
1/4 cup wine vinegar
2 Tbsp. sugar
1 clove garlic, mashed
generous pinch of red paprika
black pepper to taste
1/2 tsp. crushed cumin seeds
parsley, chopped, for garnish
Place the sliced cucumbers in a glass bowl and sprinkle liberally with salt, stirring. Let stand for 1 hour and then drain the accumulated liquids. Dry the cucumber slices on paper toweling and then return to the bowl. Combine the wine vinegar, sugar, garlic, paprika and pepper and mix well. Pour over the cucumbers, tossing well. Sprinkle the cumin and parsley over the top. Serve lightly chilled or at room temperature.
A Polish Culinary Odyssey
For the last millennium, no European nation has had such flexible borders as Poland. This is a country that, in part or in whole, has been occupied by one or more of her neighbors for longer than most Poles care to remember. This goes a long way in explaining why there is probably no uniquely Polish cuisine. Although sour cream and dill are the two cooking ingredients almost inescapable on the Polish table, these do not a national cuisine create. Throughout the country, one cannot help but note that what is set on the table is invariably a blend of the cooking styles of bordering neighbors (Germany, Russia, Austria, Czechoslovakia, and Hungary), each of which has at one time or another held a claim on at least some part of Polish geography.
The French and the Italians, neither of which ever invaded, also had their impact on Polish cookery. And the Jewish table, too, had an undeniably strong impact on the national cuisine.
The Jews of Poland, whether they lived in the shtetls or the large cities, did well to overcome a tradition in which pork was the major source of protein and where nearly every meat dish incorporated dairy products in the cooking. Each of the following dishes, distinctly Jewish in origin, is now considered part of the repertoire of any good Polish cook in Israel as well as in Poland.
The recipes given are designed to serve 4 - 6.